2.23.2010

back from samoa, heres some photos and a little story

It's 345 AM, your dreaming the image of fire, sun, ovens, microwaves and hot sauce.

347 AM: before you know it your eyes are wide open, your sunburns are stinging, your throat is dry, and your dripping wet; sweating battery acid while staring at the rotating fan. waiting and watching it as it slowly rotates over to your body. After the heat stoke in the middle of the night, its 7 AM.

BANG BANG BANG ! Tom Carey shouts "get up were going to breakfast!" Again, eyes wide open instantly, you step outside and the sun is already blistering and your eyes will only open half way. You get to the breakfast table, you're served hot dogs and canned spegetios at 715 in the morning.

720 AM, ok were somewhere strange, somewhere a lot stranger than America.

722 AM I'm in SAMOA. WTF am i doing in samoa!!??

800 AM you're getting all your boards and gear ready to go surf. Your hands are full of aquitment. The sun's now gotten even hotter, your dripping sweat, and the only thing that is on your mind is an ice cube.

815 AM, you get to the car, unload your boards and force open the rusty sliding door of the van. Get in car and theres nothing but cockroaches and the terrifying burning smell of everyone's wet board shorts.


820 AM, we're finally on the road, you put your head phones on and close your eyes for the scorching hot, hour long drive to the surf spot. As your close your eyes the dreams come to haunt you again, but this time you're dreaming of the Indiana Jones ride from Disneyland. The feeling of your neck rocking in every which way direction possible, pinches you're nerves. the feeling of the car bouncing and rumbling as you're going 60 on a road full of pot holes and rocks leaving your back with nothing but herniated discs . BOOM! the driver hits a large pot hole. you're not wearing a seatbelt because the car came with none. the car goes airborne and you head smacks the roof, sending the image of looney tunes in front of your eyes.


920AM , you wake up. your neck is tweaked and your head hurts like shit. you've realized you wernt on an adventure ride at disneyland, it was just the standard, unfinished roads of Samoa.

930 AM, you've arrived to the surf spot and the waves are big and barreling viciously on the shallow reef. You step out of the car and nothing has ever felt better than the breeze of the ocean hitting every tiny hair on you're body.

940 AM. you're paddling out to the break over a deep long channel, praying to god a tiger shark doesn't snag your arm. you finally get out to the line up, look at the reef and find out were to sit.


1015 AM, Everyone has gotten a good wave but you. Your next in line to get the first set that comes through. This is gonna be a sick one! Everyone shouts, as your watching a big wall of water travel at about 15 miles mph towards the shallow reef your sitting over. Its about 20 feet away from hitting the reef, GO GO GO ! The line up screams. Your heart starts to beat harder and harder, one side of your brain is thinking about how great this wave is gonna be and the other side is thinking about how hard your skull is gonna pile drive in to this sharp coral reef. You start to paddle your hardest!


The wave starts to feather at the top, about to break, you're about to stand up. Just before you're about to stand up, the crystal clear blue water sucks off the reef, leaving only 2 feet of water to dive in to. You have spider man on one shoulder and the green goblin on the other. Spider man says "don't do it! You're gonna break your skull." the green goblin says, "go you pussy you will get a sick tube and have mind blowing experience!


By this time you've hesitated and the wave is already starting to throw... meanwhile the green goblin and spider man are fighting. you finally say "fuck it! i'm listing to the green goblin and committing to this wave'' You now stand up on your board but because of the hesitation the drop is twice as hard. you're up and sliding horizontally across the face of the wave , watching the lip of the wave throw over you. Click! you've made the drop and you're now in the tube. Time has stopped. Nothing. absolutely nothing! Has ever felt better in you're whole life……..


My day in a life on a surf trip through the eyes of you,


-andrew doheny…….


check back tomorrow for the surfing shots of my trip..





droid

15 comments:

  1. now THAT was instense
    well said mr. doheny

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  2. Pretty sick dude you should write a book about all the surf trips that you have been on I would buy it

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  3. OMG! Natural talent there Andrew! You should be submitting this to Transworld w/ those photos....
    Everything you write is so descriptive! It makes me think I'm there with you guys....

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  4. pure poetry,
    my alliteration's awesome

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  5. Thats cute, I remember when I had my first beer too.

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  6. I have got to see a clip of that wave.

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  7. sounds like a SICKK backside shack

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  8. whats your opinion on Miley Cyrus? random........ but i was just wondering... would you guys think shes a hottie or is she too young

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  9. haha nice question. ya shes cute for sure... haha i remember when granger larsen used to stay at my house a couple of years ago we would watch that show she was on and froth out on her, haha kinda embarrassing but whatever. -kk

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  10. What ever happened to Q&A friday??? :(

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  11. yea for real! ^^^^^ We want Q&Am d00000dss

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  12. good question! we started that with hopes that we would be bombarded with questions from viewers.... it turns out that our viewers are not as inquisitive as we had hoped for them to be. we received a few questions, most of them were ppl we know fucking with us or freaky chicks asking about how big our dicks are and junk like that, but for the most part we did not receive enough questions to do a post on. this does not mean that Q&A Fridays are dead, they are merely postponed until we get more active viewers, like yourselves!

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  13. where are the Samoa surf piccs dudes?

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  14. This is ozzie wright ?? really look like him...

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